There seems to be a fair bit of confusion about what a "created" gemstone is, and more to the point, what it is not. Some people use the term very casually and think it means glass, rhinestone, cubic zirconia, etc., colored to look like the true jewel, some people just don't know what the heck it is, some people are confused about the whole issue, and who could blame them? With any luck, this guide will help to clarify things, somewhat. (Note that this little guide does not cover diamonds; we have written another guide specifically on diamond simulants.)

The term "created" means something specific in the jewellery industry. There are guidelines and even laws in place to protect the consumer and regulate the industry, and companies have actually been sued over their improper use of the term "created" when applied to gemstones that would better be described as simulants.

So what's a created gemstone?

Simply put, a real created gemstone (also known as a synthetic, from the Greek synthesis, meaning "put together, combine, or compose", i.e., to create) is one that is man-made, but which is chemically, physically, and visually identical to the natural version. A created ruby is a ruby, a created sapphire is a sapphire, a created emerald is an emerald, and so forth. These created jewels are made in a laboratory, crystalized and formed by special processes, and then cut like any other gemstone. They are absolutely real, they just aren't natural.

Trained gemologists can often tell the difference between a created gemstone and a natural one, but it isn't always easy, no matter how well-trained or skilled the gemologist or jeweller. It's complicated even further if the stone is already set in a piece of jewellery.

One factor is that created gemstones are often available in colours that are extremely rare in the natural variety of the stone.

Also, since gem-quality natural rubies, emeralds, sapphires, etc. are rare, they're naturally quite expensive (the higher the quality, the higher the price, of course), usually considerably higher than a created gemstone of the same type. Natural gemstones also have flaws (that's one way to tell they're natural!), while lab-created stones can be and usually are flawless or nearly so, although they do bear some specific signs (often microscopic) of their creation process.

If a gemstone is not physically, chemically, and visually identical to its natural counterpart, it is not a created gemstone!

What is it, then?

Simulated gemstones (simulants) are another classification. These can be just about anything, depending on the manufacturer and seller: plastic resin, cubic zirconia, moissanite, glass, rhinestone, crystal, "paste", you name it. There are very high quality simulated gemstones and there very cheap and dodgy ones, and there's everything in between. These gems are also referred to as "faux" (French for "false") or "mock".

There's nothing inherently wrong with simulated gemstones, so long as you know what they are and you know what you're buying. Most people consider cubic zirconia (CZ) to be a diamond simulant, for example (although CZ can simulate other gemstones, as well, depending on the colour and cut). There are other diamond simulants, as well, including moissanite. There are also a good many other simulated gemstones that are very pretty and well worth having in a piece of jewellery. As noted, being "simulated" doesn't mean it's necessarily bad, only that it's not "the real thing", and so long as you know that's what you're buying, all should be well.

How can I tell the difference?

Ah, now here's where it gets tricky. Some vendors and online stores will use the word "created" when they really should be saying "plastic" (yes, we've seen that for ourselves!), and they'll say "created diamond" when they mean cubic zirconia (again, nothing wrong with CZ, but it's not a diamond, and while it looks very similar, it's visually, chemically, and physically different!). This is usually because they don't really know the difference, but it may be because they're deliberately trying to mislead.

The best thing that a buyer can do is ask the vendor questions. Ask them what, specifically, they mean  by "created rubies" or "natural cubic zirconia" (don't fall for that one, by the way!) or "created diamonds" or whatever term they're using.  Ask before you buy, and then carefully consider the answer you get, and the degree of knowledge the seller shows on the subject. Not all sellers are (nor should they have to be) certified gemmologists, but they should have a good, strong, professional working knowledge of what they're selling and be able to answer your questions clearly and professionally.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with created (or even simulated) gemstones, and in fact, the created versions can be extraordinarily beautiful, flawless, and with fantastic colour. Just exercise a bit of caution, buy from professional, knowlegeable vendors, and ask the right questions.